All climbs fall under mountaineering, but not all climbs can be considered alpinism. Many people who use the terms interchangeably might wonder whether there’s even a difference.
But climbers who choose to specialize in alpinism mountaineering know the distinction lies in technical skill and outlook which, quite frankly, requires a whole other level of gutsy determination.
Alpinism is Specialized Mountaineering
Just as ophthalmology is a specialization in medicine, alpinism is a specialized form of mountaineering. Both have the same objective of reaching the summit, and require the same physical, technical, and planning skills for reaching it. Alpinism, though, will need additional, advanced skills.
Get a quick overview from the table below, then read on to learn more about the differences.
| Climbing Style | Alpinism | Mountaineering |
|---|---|---|
| Definition | Quick and direct “attack” | Slow but steady “siege” |
| Duration | Days | Weeks or months |
| Focus | Travel light Technique and skill Physical conditioning | Expedition Acclimatization Safety |
| Team | Climbers | Climbers, porters, guides |
What is Mountaineering?
Before we get into the specialization, let’s start with the general term for mountain climbing or mountaineering. You’re likely to be aware of other specialized forms or skills that are involved with getting to the top such as ice climbing, rock climbing, or even hiking. Anyone who says “mountaineering” in casual conversation may have those skills in mind.
But if we were to give a specific definition for how the term is used by experts, mountaineering refers to a full-on expedition up an extremely high mountain that would take weeks or months to summit. Such an expedition would usually involve entire teams of climbers (sometimes including guides and porters) and a whole lot of gear.
After all, if you’re going to spend weeks on end on an ascent, you’re going to need food, water, and medical supplies, not to mention ropes, harnesses, tools, and so on for the actual climb.
We explain all about the sport in our Mountaineering Beginners Guide.
How Mountaineering is Done
Your mountaineering team sets up camp, first at the base, then at pre-planned stops along the way to the summit. As you make your way up, you’d leave camp to set up fixed ropes to help you climb, then go back to the camp to rest and acclimatize. Then, you’d go back up with the aid of the fixed ropes a little higher (say, 3,200 feet975 meters) each day.
Where to Go Mountaineering
If Mount Everest is the first to come to mind, you’re absolutely right, as heights like this are considered mountaineering. Other examples of mountaineering destinations include Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth highest mountain which is also in the Himalayas; Denali or Mount McKinley in Alaska, and Mount Baker in Washington state.
Mountaineering is For You, If…
…you haven’t been mountain climbing for very long and would appreciate the support team that comes with mountaineering. You don’t mind taking things slow and steady, and getting to the summit safely and back would be your main priority.
Why You Should Go Mountaineering
Mountaineering definitely has its advantages which include the steady pacing that helps with acclimatization to ward off altitude sickness. You’ll also be able to use the fixed ropes which, together with not having to carry so much, will help you move faster. And because of all that going up, going down, and going back up again, you’ll really get to know the way to the summit.
Why You Should Reconsider Mountaineering
Any climb requires careful planning, more so for mountaineering. Not only will you have to plan your route up and down the mountain, but you’ll have to factor in your supplies and the manpower involved (not to mention the cost). Also, the longer you spend up there, the more you’ll risk having to deal with bad weather, avalanches, and the like.
What is Alpinism?
Referred to as the “pure” form of mountaineering, alpinism sheds all the extra gear, porters, and so on down to the absolute essentials in a straight-to-the-top push to the summit. That also means no extra days spent on fixing rope or going back to camp. Just going onward and upward to the top in mere days, versus the weeks or months it would take by mountaineering.
This often means taking routes that would be extremely difficult to pass for an entire team with guides and porters hauling all their gear and supplies. Such routes can take you up vertical surfaces such as a frozen waterfall, which means alpinists need the skills and physical conditioning for these climbs.
Alpinists also go up in teams (albeit much smaller), with everyone on the team relying more on their training, technique, and experience rather than a well-supplied entourage. And while they’ll use different techniques and pass a different way, alpinists also often ascend the same heights used for mountaineering.
How Alpinism is Done
Because there’s no going back down for acclimatization on the way, alpinists prepare by acclimatizing somewhere else (usually another, not-as-tall mountain). They carry everything they need with them, and absolutely nothing else, to be able to move as light and quickly as possible. They also don’t set up fixed camps along the way.
Where Alpinists Go
Many smaller mountains (as in not in the Mount Everest category) are good for alpinism and where many climbers will try it first. Popular destinations include Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn in Europe. In Mexico, there’s Pico de Orizaba, while in the US, there’s Mount Whitney in California, Mount Hood in Oregon, and Mount Shuksan and Mount Stuart in Washington state.
Alpinism is For You, If…
…you’re a highly trained, experienced climber armed with technical skills, not just ice climbing and the like, but reconnaissance, assessing fall risk, and knowing how to perform a crevasse rescue. You keep your skills sharp and your body in peak condition with regular training, and you’ve got the drive and focus for tackling routes most climbers shy away from.
Why You Should Try Alpinism
The advantages of alpinism lie not just in its speed, but also the lower risk of exposure to the dangers of spending extended periods in a harsh environment. The cost is also significantly lower, not just because you’re carrying less but because of the smaller teams and logistics involved.
Why You Should Reconsider Alpinism
The planning involved for alpinism needs to be no less painstaking and thorough as for mountaineering, and arguably needs to be more detailed. You’ll have to make doubly sure of the route you’ll be taking, especially if you’ll be needing special, advanced climbing skills along the way.
Because of the limited gear you can take with you, factor in how you won’t be able to switch boots, for example, or how you’ll need to make do with just what you have. You will also need to work extremely well with your teammates, so make sure you climb with fellow alpinists you can trust.
FAQ
No. While ice climbing (or rock climbing) are sometimes required for certain ascends, it is not exactly the same. Similarly how hiking is a part of mountaineering, but is not the same thing. Mountaineering and Alpinism simply bring all these sports together in an attempt to reach the summit.
